This is something we ask ourselves often, mostly because our aims with the brand are never to reinvent the wheel, but to put forward an idea of what a pair of jeans might look like in 20 years. Of course we’re not the only brand out there that explores the future rather than the past, but like with any form of exploration there's varied perspectives.
Before we started, a lot of “futuristic brands” fell into a few categories: recycled/reconstruction, post-apocalyptic and utility/gorpcore. Not to say any of those are wrong and many brands that exist in those worlds do it very well. However there is a break in the continuation of fashion, from where we are now to where we will be. What happens in between us all wearing joggers today and us wearing gore-texed raincoats in our Metaverse offices 50 years from now.
While we're not overly referential to the history of fashion it is in the back of our minds as we design. Which in a sense is obvious, it's difficult to try and design something new while not disconnecting yourself entirely from the evolutionary process of people's wardrobes. 2 shifts in that evolution that are of particular interest is the “anglomania” of post revolution france and the adoption of military clothing after WW2.
With Anglomania we saw politics and the mindsets of a population reflected in their clothing. While we’re not experts on the subject, more intelligent writers of that era put it like this: the French became disillusioned with leaders dressing for court far from their constituencies and preferred the look of the more “outdoorsy”British aristocracy. Frocks coats and tights become trousers and riding jackets. This equestrian attire saw the rise of riding clubs even outside of Britain. Maybe subconsciously calling back to the symbol of great leaders riding into war on horses, fashion was maybe for the first time really establishing what we call “quiet luxury.” Not to say it was affordable or anything but a boys club. Regardless there is a subversion of wealth and leaders leaning into masculine stereotypes.
Applying that to our own situation, what is the anglomania of the future? With a shift towards remote work and comfortable clothing, even when we do go into office spaces 3 piece suits have been left for smart casual preferences. Following on from this escape from working spaces there is now the rising fear of AI and machinery replacing us entirely. Really forcing us out of any uniforms and left in our homes for good. The result we believe in, is people returning to uniforms and formality. Something that says I am comfortable, free from fear of being replaced and I continue to have a set purpose amongst a shifting landscape. Where the English wanted to suggest a fulfilled and adventurous life, we might prefer a different outdoors. Outside of the home and still in an office. It might sound crazy considering how many of us prefer the remote working lifestyle. But when the scales tip it might be less crazy to consider how much we might miss organisation, structure and socialising in work places.
Then there is also the adoption of military clothing post WW2. Ironic in a way given the amount of anti-war protest surrounding the Vietnam war, one of the worst genocides we’ve seen in living memory. Even something that we take for granted today like printed tshirts first began with the US military. Irony aside there is reason there, the contrast of hippies and punks building out a uniform so that it is recognisable to their political counterpart. Pulling elements of military clothing such as camouflage, khakis, cargoes, leather boots shows that they too are an army willing to fight for what they believe in. Camouflage turns to tie dye and headbands hold long hair rather than helmets.
For brands pushing fashion into the future military influence is just as recognisable. Coats with pockets in every seam, water proofing all visible surfaces, and bleak photoshoots suggesting a barren world that requires specific clothing to survive. As much as it does all seem innovative it is also entirely disconnected. Take pockets for example, with every new year comes new gadgets that can do any number of things. What is the purpose of a 20 pocket jacket when you only need one that fits your phone. For our brand we generally have a dislike for pockets which is selfish and maybe this is just self-justification. However, if the militarisation of our wardrobes in the last century continues (which there's no signs of it not) we can’t just say we don’t like pockets because who needs them. So if we were to put forward our take on military influence it would be of soft lines and comfortable utility.
With how politically engaged the world is becoming, thanks in part to the widely available reports from civilians rather than news companies, there will need to come a time where utility and uniform is entirely distinguishable from its military inspiration. You see footage of soldiers and police officers wearing casual clothing alongside their cargoes and vests. The idea of simply re-styling warfare garments is unreasonable.
So then it becomes an exploration of presenting utility, cultural engagement and political confidence. If you see a punk today the understanding of anti-establishment remains. In a future where AI takes jobs and our purpose in life shifts from work to something new entirely, how do we create clothes that symbolise we are still here, we’re still useful and we are confident in knowing that.
Perhaps it's a casual suit with suggestions of formality and importance. No shoulders pads, made of deadstock wool with adaptable elements for an adaptable lifestyle. Or cargoes with gathered waists like pantaloons of French aristocrats. Rounded pockets, satin lined and ribbon closures. Who knows really, which is a bit of a lazy answer but then the fun is in the exploration. Every design is either pushing fashion forward or more of the same but to even have one garment that leaves its impression is something any brand aspires to.